Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen is suspended time. The blue city clings to the Rif mountains; its winding stairs lead to flower-filled squares. Worth doing: the walk to the Spanish mosque at sunset.

The key moments
- Outa el-Hammam square at sunrise
- The blue stairs of Ras el-Maa
- The Kasbah and its small ethnography museum
- The walk up to the Spanish mosque
Three moments, one city
- № 01Morning — the blue medina
Walk early to have the lanes to yourself. Coffee on Outa el-Hammam square.
- № 02Midday — retreat into the cool
Lunch in a courtyard, a nap in the shade of a fig tree.
- № 03Evening — the burning mountain
Climb to the Spanish mosque for sunset over the blue city.
Finding a room
A guesthouse inside the medina. The lanes are pedestrian — pack light or arrange portering. Terraces open onto the Rif mountains.
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Other cities in the guide
Other cities to pair in your itinerary.

Marrakech
The red medina, the Majorelle and Secret gardens, the riad dinners.

Fez
The largest inhabited medina in the world, the tanneries, the Al Quaraouiyine university.

Essaouira
The fishing harbour, the Venetian ramparts, the trade wind and the thuya marquetry.
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